Danish Pastries: Weinerbrod

So you may be wondering about the famous Danishes. They're everywhere! It seems every other storefront is displaying these scrumptious sweets. What we know as a Danish pastry is actually called Weinerbrod here which means "Viennese bread". This is because the art of making flaking pastry was learned from bakers in Vienna. Here the dough turns our more crossiant like and less sticky and sweet compared to those in the US. Cream puffs seem to be another popular option at the "konditorier" (patisseries). The Danes tend to eat freshly baked bread as opposed to package and store bought. Bakeries abound and offer a wide selection often alongside a wide array of sweet goodies. I happened upon a place that appears to be one of the best in the city as evidenced by it's ever present line. I'm looking forward to what new treats Chris and I will be savoring from there today!

-MGB

Den Lille Havfrue

Here she is - the quintessential symbol of Copenhagen - the Little Mermaid or Den Lille Havfrue as she's known in Danish. She's small in size and gracefully perched atop a rock just off the shore in the northern part of Copenhagen. I ventured across the city on foot with her as my destination. On my way I passed through some picturesque parts of town and once I arrived at the mermaid, I sat on a bench in the park there for a good hour or more and soaked up the sun and fresh air. Yes, sun! I've had 3 out of 4 days that were sunny. While there I met Peter, a nice older Danish man, who shared stories with me about all the mishaps that the poor Lille Havfrue has endured the most severe being 2 beheadings. He also let me know about her birthday party which occurs each year on August 23rd. He says people bring her flowers, try to sit on top of her head and jump off of boats and frolic in the sea in mermaid costumes. Sounds like a good party!

-MGB

Crooked House

Since many of those viewing this blog are in some way a part of the building industry, I thought it apropos to highlight some examples of the residential structures we noticed along our travels. Granted, they are old so we can cut them and their creators some slack but we're just not sure how long they've been this crooked and seemingly about to cave in or collapse. Who knows though - looks can be deceiving. Maybe they're standing solid as a rock. You be the judge.

-MGB

CK BD

To celebrate Chris' birthday we decided to go out for sushi. He knew of a place close by which turned out to be very mod and chic with a few differences from what we're used to. For example, an order of sushi is just one piece not two (no reduced cost though), prices on the menu are stated in Euros even though Denmark uses the Danish Crown or Kroner and they provide metal chopsticks which were sleek and appealing but a little heavy and difficult to maneuver well.
Our meal was a tasty one which we topped off with a big bowl of the standard green tea ice cream and of course Chris' own mini Danish flag in place of candles. Apparently it's a tradition to include a Danish flag in just about any kind of celebration - birthdays, anniversaries, maybe weddings, new babies, whatever. Now that his colleagues at work know it was his birthday, he can definitely expect another one!

-MGB

Lund, Sweden

We spent this Saturday in southern Sweden. The overall appearance and personality of southern Sweden is remarkably similar to that of Copenhagen and Denmark. Especially now, with the opening of the Øresund bridge between Malmö (Sweden) and Kastrup (Denmark), the two regions are becoming one, with Copenhagen as the region's center. Transportation is a breeze with the DSB rail lines running up and down both coasts, and it's relatively simple to spend a single day sightseeing in Sweden.

First stop was Lund, a small town with a large university and an ancient cathedral. The words quaint and cozy may have been invented for Lund. The cathedral was obviously the main tourist attraction, and with good reason. I'm quite certain that most 12th century churches are not so well preserved and maintained. The architectural style was textbook Romanesque, as if it had been placed on a trailer and hauled up from northern Italy.
After Lund we hopped back on the train and headed north to Helsingborg. Once again the quaint and cozy feeling almost made you sick. We spent the evening playing backgammon at the local bar talking smack with the local Swedish container shippers. I give our Hotel Viking the highest recommendation possible--price, quality, and service were absolutely impeccable. Plus, the breakfast was insanely big and good! Here's a shot looking toward Denmark from the hill in Helsingborg: CK signing off. Enjoy MGB's blog skills!

My Guest Blogger Policy

In order to keep this blog fresh with new perspectives and voices I am going to encourage my visitors to be guest bloggers. First up is Melissa, scheduled to arrive tonight. This weekend we are going to Sweden and next weekend we're off to Berlin. These trips, as well as her ambitious Copenhagen itinerary, will provide a mountain of blog-worthy material. I'm confident she will set a worthy precedent.

Germany?

I am helping several of my friends plan trips to Germany. It's a big place with many possibilities, so I turned to my Danish coworkers for help. Here are some of their suggestions:

• Germany? You want to go there?
• I pass through Germany on my way to the Alps.
• I try to pass through Germany at night.
• Convince your friends that they need to go somewhere else like France or Austria.
• There are a few attractions, but I think they're mostly for old people.
• Beer is cheaper there.
• OK, if you insist on going, I heard Berlin is not such a bad place.

Cell Phones in Europe

What is your best option for mobile communication when you visit Europe this spring/summer?

• Option 1: Buy a European cellphone with a pay-per-minute SIM card. After the initial investment of $50-100 you are paying a few pennies per minute for local calls. Int'l calls are quite expensive. This is the right choice if you're visiting with friends and you plan to make many local calls. This was also the obvious choice for my six month visit.
• Option 2: Unlock your American cellphone and install a European SIM card. I have been told that it's possible to unlock a phone for $30...or free if you know the right people. A SIM card will cost around $20. So, it's just a little cheaper but you know you love your phone and you have all of your numbers ready to go. Beware of the risks: in Barcelona I somehow melted my American charger in the Spanish outlet.
• Option 3: Use your American service in Europe. Cingular has roaming coverage for all of Europe and the rate is $1-2 per minute. Text messaging works too. This is a good option if you just want your phone for emergencies.
• Option 4: Skype your int'l calls. You will need to buy a $30 USB headset and set up a free account on Skype, but you can have unlimited FREE conversations with other Skypers back home. Calls to regulare phones are not free, but they are reasonably priced. Also, Wi-Fi phones are now available for approx $200, so you just have to hunt down a cafe with free Wi-Fi access. The real benefit is the pride you feel as you sit on the cutting edge of technology.

Fisherman Chris

Here's Fisker Kristofer casting his gaze to the wine dark sea, pondering the route of his next voyage in his unsinkable båt, Betsy "Baby" Blue. There she is, peaking out from behind his right shoulder.

Dansk 101: Yes, the Danish word for boat is still b-o-a-t, but the o and a are stacked for some reason.

Snow!

What luck! The first snow of the winter just happened to coincide with a spontaneous guided tour of the countryside.
This beach is as cold as it looks. The surf is small because it faces east, away from the winds that were causing big problems on the other side of the ø.

Dansk 101: ø = island. Danmark in one letter.

A cool church in Farum.

A Great Dane

Introducing Jens, the 'dansker af dagen.' I don't think he was invited to my party, but how can you say no to this? Apparently he "visited the zoo" and was particularly fond of the bjørn, elefant, and giraf.

My Housewarming Party

My apartment was a little too quiet and cold. What better than a party to warm things up? The next morning I discovered that I do not own a mop or a broom.

Who's visiting me?

I've been in touch with many people who are on the verge of visiting me. Here's a list of who and when:

• March 16-19 - HZ and BH; hopefully PK too - Dublin
• April? - CB and SM - Germany / Copenhagen?
• May 21-29? - C"LG"W - Germany / Copenhagen
• "sometime this spring" - JZ - Copenhagen / Sweden?

Anyone else out there making plans? Remember: free lodging awaits in beautiful København... Carpe diem!

My Washing Machine

Um...yeah, I have no idea how to work this thing. Clearly it's an IQ test secretly installed in my apartment for someone's amusement. I keep looking for the hidden camera.

Here's a closeup of what appears to be the most important dial. Active 40 and Hygiene+ are in a bold font so I've been playing it safe with them. I'd like to experiment though, so a few creative suggestions are welcome.

Copenhagen at Night

A nice view from Christianshavn. It's even nicer when you are standing there in the wind and near-freezing mist.

Elf Beer

I stumbled across these crates of beer on sale at the local grocery--a BIG sale. As in 0,25kr per bottle, which means $1 for 22 bottles! I got very excited and quickly snatched up a crate of 24 with plans to return for more. I couldn't understand why everyone else was walking past and ignoring this practically free beer. After running home with this clanging crate I take a closer look at the bottles:

Christmas beer. That fine. It's still beer--just old, right? Um...Not exactly. Turns out hvidtøl translates as "white beer," which actually means "zero alcohol." My coworkers enjoyed telling me that I am the proud owner of a crate of Elf Beer--a popular Christmas drink for kids.

HCA: Like a good punch in the stomach

I continued my HC Andersen binge late into Sunday night. One fairy tale after the next and you start to get the impression Mr. Andersen wasn't terribly happy with life. The grand finale was The Little Match Girl...like a good punch in the stomach.

The Ugly Duckling

"To be born in a duck's nest, in a farmyard, is of no consequence to a bird, if it is hatched from a swan's egg."

I opened H.C. Andersen for the first time today. What a fascinating and tragic personality! The Ugly Duckling is possibly his most famous work and it's what you might call an autobiographical fairy tale. The poor ugly animal suffers, escapes to suffer more, and finally, on the brink of suicide, it just happens to end up on top of the world, thanks to an unknown birthright. A duck with luck.

Taken literally, it says that a select few are destined for greatness and the rest are simply stuck where they are. Sorry kid, you're a misfit and you don't have any say in the matter, so just cross your fingers, keep scraping by, and maybe one day you'll find that you're a swan. A rather dark, pessimistic message for a children's story, don't you think? Disney, we need some major help here!

The Ugly Duckling is a fantastic piece of poetry--soooo much imagery and emotion. But damn, it's depressing. Classism and elitism were never my favorite subjects. Maybe I'll move on and find a happy Andersen fairy tale.

Texas = Chainsaws

A couple of days ago a local asked me if I "clear brush" like George Bush. It seemed like a weird question (until now), but I have in fact "cleared brush" so I gladly embellished and added fuel to his vision of Big Wild Texas.

Christianshavn Kanal

Copenhagen is so very picturesque on a sunny winter day. In the city center views like this are around every corner. This particular canal runs through Christianshavn, a neighborhood across the river from what is considered the very center of the city.

My Bridge to Islands Brygge

This is the pedestrian bridge I cross every day on my way to work. The curvaceous building in the distance is two old concrete silos that have been converted into condos. Very nice.

Fun Ain't Cheap

Well, I was warned, and now I know it's true: fun in Copenhagen is not cheap. I went downtown, a.k.a. 'the center' with my Danish "uncle" Henrik and a couple of his friends. It was great to see Nyhavn at night and get a small taste of the nightlife. Pints of ubiquitous Carlsberg were $10 average (a weeknight, remember) and our interesting Danish meal of kartoffel, rødbede, and what I'll call deep fried ultra crispy pork fat sticks was the price of a decent sushi meal. No complaints, of course, because I had a great time, but I think there's a reason Danes are so fond of their kitchens and homemade food.

What Winter?

Weather has been a hot topic around here lately (pun intended). Apparently I have brought a little Texas/SoCal weather with me...They're claiming this is the warmest European winter in 1,300 years!!! Whatever, it's still cold out there if you ask me. The only downside is snowboarding (er, I mean skiing) may really be bad this year, as in NO snow at all!

First Day of Work!

Today, exactly three years and three days after starting work for TT, I have another first day at LHAS...in København (pronounced koopnhown). All of my email addresses are still valid, but this is the most direct email: CBK@leifhansen.dk. I'm also available on Skype if you care to chat across the Atlantic for FREE.

My mailing address (no packages):
Christopher Kahanek
Axel Heides Gade 12, 1mf.
2300 København S

A tour and introduction to Leif Hansen A/S is on its way...check back soon!

Barcelona: "I'll Be Back"

After leaving the city and telling friends about where I went and what I saw, I've realize that I barely scratched the surface--I didn't even fully explore the places that I did visit. It's a real urban treasure trove, and perhaps what makes it so unique is its ability to offer something special to people of every age with any interest. I'll be back.

Stay in a hostel--you won't regret it.

Traveling on a budget is easy in Europe and in my opinion it's the better way. A simple way to save a lot money is to stay in a hostel instead of a hotel. They cost 1/2 or 1/3 as much, and while you give up a little comfort you can almost always gain a few friends. Case in point:
The two guys that look like identical twins are in fact only brothers and one of them is a student staying in Dublin. The Sierra Nevada sweatshirt is a dead giveaway...they are of course 100% Californian. The two behind me are American volunteers in the Peace Corps. They have been living in Romania for something like a year, but I think they've had the education of a lifetime.

You think maybe we should branch out and talk to people from other countries, maybe stop looking in the mirror all the time. Truth is, after swimming nonstop in a sea of people so different from you--and Americans ARE different--it feels damn good to sit down and talk to someone who all of a sudden has a lot in common with you.

It is hard to imagine just how much you can learn by simply exchanging stories about your travel adventures over a few pints of beer. Traveling in a foreign country is instant sensory overload and often it doesn't sink in until you break it down to anecdotes and jokes. Even better, this one night out could turn into much more: if I ever find myself in Sibiu or Dublin I have a tour guide and a place to sleep only an email away. A perfect way to end my stay in Barcelona!

Tarragona, Cataluynia

Technically it's in Spain of course, but spend a few days in the area and you're made aware in countless ways that you're not in real Spain--Cataluynia just happens to be part of Spain this century.


Tarragona is about an hour outside of Barcelona and it made a great vacation from my vacation. The small town was moving slow, partly because it was a holiday, and partly because it's a small town on the beach. It has a looong history though. The Romans developed it into a city of more than 250,000 and there are a lot of archeological sites in the area, including an impressive amphitheater.

Sagrada Familia

Gaudi's obsession. He was extremely religious and he spent the last 40 or so years of his life working on this cathedral. In the end he lived onsite and was rarely seen anywhere else.

Sorry, I know this pic is more about me than the church, but I have very few shots of myself, so when they're good I have to take advantage. Note the cranes in the background. Construction is creeping along and should finish sometime before 2100.

Antoni Gaudi's Barcelona

My primary reason for jetting off to Barcelona was to see the architecture of Antoni Gaudi. He was a creative genius unlike any other, the purest definition of an iconoclast. I'm a fan. The forms he made 100 years ago are popping up in the most edgy of today's architecture, albeit with the aid of supercomputers--not sacks of sand and cables. Check him out:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antoni_Gaudi


It is very hard to capture the full effect of a Gaudi building in a photograph, but here's a pic anyway--Casa Batllo.

A Quick Glimpse of København

My first coherent morning in Copenhagen, and there's sunshine! A rare and happy phenomenon in this part of the world at this time of the year. I had a few hours to stroll around town before heading off to Barcelona, so I did.

Nyhavn is area in the very center of Copenhagen that is probably the most touristy and 'quaint.' Not a soul in sight on this fine January morning.

A Happy Danish New Year

No time to recover after the exhausting trans-Atlantic flight. Shortly after dumping my luggage in the apartment we were off to Mona's New Year Party: 14 Danes, 1 American, too much wine, and too little self control.

I think this one picture captures a nice slice of the evening's chaos. I am told that our friend on the left was hit in the eye with a champagne cork at the same instant we cracked our cheese smiles.

Oh, and for those of you who don't know, Mona was the first exchange worker from Leif Hansen. She spent six months of 2006 in TT's New York office.